Walking on the wild (sea) side to the northernmost point in Wales

Distance: 8.25km (round trip). This hike from comely harbour village Cemaes is SO Wales: hugging the wind-smacked north coast of Anglesey, it encompasses a swaddle of sandy, craggy, seaweed-trailed seaboard jaw-droppingly dramatic even by the standards of an island celebrated for quality coastline, then with characteristic lack of fanfare ushers you up to the hulking headland of Llanlleiana, Wales’ most northerly point accessible by foot. … Continue reading Walking on the wild (sea) side to the northernmost point in Wales

Cyfannedd Fach holiday cottage – something special in the middle of nowhere in southern Snowdonia

You may have fancied you have stayed in extremely isolated accommodation in Britain before. So did we. But spend some nights at Cyfannedd Fach, a 250 year-old stone cottage sequestered away somewhere between mountain, forest and sea in the shadow of the rugged folds of Cadair Idris and you will most likely be reassessing your notions of remote.  The distance from Dolgellau, the nearest town … Continue reading Cyfannedd Fach holiday cottage – something special in the middle of nowhere in southern Snowdonia

What it’s like to walk right around Wales: tips and tales from the trail with seasoned hiker Michelle Gollins

Few people can say they have walked the entire way around a country. Wales might have become the world’s first nation to have a footpath all along its borders with the completion of the Wales Coast Path (WCP) in 2012, therefore making the challenge more possible. But actually doing the hike, 870 miles on the WCP, another 177 miles on the Offa’s Dyke Path (ODP) … Continue reading What it’s like to walk right around Wales: tips and tales from the trail with seasoned hiker Michelle Gollins

The source of the UK’s longest river

Walk length: 16km (out and back). For an upland that can make so many bold claims (highest point in Mid Wales, one of the greatest uninterrupted wildernesses in Wales and, as will shortly be elaborated upon, the source of Britain’s longest river, fifth-longest river and the longest two to flow across Welsh soil), Pumlumon is a very unfrequented place. We can vouch for that. When … Continue reading The source of the UK’s longest river

Getting rugged in Snowdonia with Kate and Ross Worthington of RAW Adventures

From essential training in hill, mountain and wilderness skills to guiding adventure-seekers on hardcore challenges like the Welsh 3000s (Northern Snowdonia’s 15 highest summits) and organising recce events to those preparing for the world’s toughest competitive mountain run (the Dragon’s Back Race from Conwy to Cardiff across the remote central spine of Wales), RAW Adventures have been leading people into North Wales’ mightiest and most … Continue reading Getting rugged in Snowdonia with Kate and Ross Worthington of RAW Adventures

In search of the cave of Twm Siôn Cati, the Welsh Robin Hood

Walk length: 4km. In almost all countries, it seems, there is a Robin Hood figure, usually treading that hazy space between fact and fiction in history: someone who takes from the rich, gives to the poor and then gets heroised in popular culture. In Wales, it is Twm Siôn Cati: a canny 16th-century Mid Wales outlaw about whom reams of stories have been written but … Continue reading In search of the cave of Twm Siôn Cati, the Welsh Robin Hood

Scaling Mid Wales’ highest summit, Pen Pumlumon Fawr

Walk length: 8km. All around us is yellow – rise upon rise of unpeopled yellowness, save for a tiny oasis of green, our start point, far below and insignificant on the horizon. Sun beats down out of an absolute blue sky. We turn and head on into the wilderness, heads bent into the driving wind…not a snippet from one of our trips to the Sahara, … Continue reading Scaling Mid Wales’ highest summit, Pen Pumlumon Fawr

Sweet temptation at The Plwmp Tart in Penbryn

Housed in a prettily converted stone cart house, the Plwmp Tart is everything a coastal cafe ought to be – and a lot more. The location is dreamy, for starters, with the cafe abutting sunlit beech woods that spill down to the bay of Penbryn. And organic and garden-grown ingredients go into light lunches and cakes – all made with a pinch of love. Why … Continue reading Sweet temptation at The Plwmp Tart in Penbryn

Between the sea and sky: Ynyslas Dunes

A vast, open expanse of sea and sky greeted us at the Ynyslas dunes. Rolling south of the Dyfi Estuary for as far as the eye can see, this dune dreamscape lifts gazes and spirits – particularly on a spring day, when a stiff breeze buffets the Irish Sea and clouds billow atmospherically in a sharp blue sky. Driving the Coastal Way, the 180-mile route … Continue reading Between the sea and sky: Ynyslas Dunes

Cwmdu Inn: community-run tavern that could be Mid Wales’ most wondrous watering hole

Making the journey north from Llandeilo in Carmarthenshire, a distinct change takes place in the landscape. The county’s fertile lowlands, main towns and main roads are now behind you. The hills get bigger, the valleys deeper; communities more scattered. You are entering Mid Wales: the wildest tract of the country. Cwmdu village is about the most paradisal initiation to this region you could imagine, and … Continue reading Cwmdu Inn: community-run tavern that could be Mid Wales’ most wondrous watering hole