Llansteffan: the greatest hits in one striking coastal Carmarthenshire hike

Distance: 7.25km (loop) or 13km (with 5.75km out-and-back extension). Carmarthenshire, being next-door neighbours with beach-perfect Pembrokeshire, often gets its 70-odd miles of coastline unfairly overlooked. But the county is no seaside flop. The estuary-indented seaboard embraces Wales’ longest beach (eight-mile-long Pembrey Sands), the shores where numerous land speed records including Malcolm Campbell’s got set (Pendine Sands), the spot where Amelia Earhart touched down to become … Continue reading Llansteffan: the greatest hits in one striking coastal Carmarthenshire hike

Finding romance in the stones of Anglesey’s Ynys Llanddwyn on St Dwynwen’s Day

Ynys Llanddwyn is love at first sight. Whipped by the Irish Sea, riven with secluded coves, cloaked in gold-green marram grass and commanding soul-stirring views of the dragon’s backbone of the Llŷn Peninsula, this narrow spit of land off Anglesey’s south coast becomes an island at very high tides. And not just any old island. Here the ruins of a 16th-century church, nave exposed to … Continue reading Finding romance in the stones of Anglesey’s Ynys Llanddwyn on St Dwynwen’s Day

Cyfannedd Fach holiday cottage – something special in the middle of nowhere in southern Snowdonia

You may have fancied you have stayed in extremely isolated accommodation in Britain before. So did we. But spend some nights at Cyfannedd Fach, a 250 year-old stone cottage sequestered away somewhere between mountain, forest and sea in the shadow of the rugged folds of Cadair Idris and you will most likely be reassessing your notions of remote.  The distance from Dolgellau, the nearest town … Continue reading Cyfannedd Fach holiday cottage – something special in the middle of nowhere in southern Snowdonia

What it’s like to walk right around Wales: tips and tales from the trail with seasoned hiker Michelle Gollins

Few people can say they have walked the entire way around a country. Wales might have become the world’s first nation to have a footpath all along its borders with the completion of the Wales Coast Path (WCP) in 2012, therefore making the challenge more possible. But actually doing the hike, 870 miles on the WCP, another 177 miles on the Offa’s Dyke Path (ODP) … Continue reading What it’s like to walk right around Wales: tips and tales from the trail with seasoned hiker Michelle Gollins

The Cardiff Bay Barrage Crocodile (in honour of Roald Dahl)

We admit it: a point comes when, as new parents, you start looking at undertaking not just the truly hardcore adventures that were once your raison d’être but also the activities that will be enjoyable and easy to do for the little one(s) in your life. As travellers long accustomed to going so wildly off-piste the piste can no longer be seen, reaching this point … Continue reading The Cardiff Bay Barrage Crocodile (in honour of Roald Dahl)

Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

On a sunny day in St Davids, you might think it’s impossible to dodge the crowds. Yet the coastal honeypot is but a pebble-throw away from some deliciously secluded beaches: not least this sandy haven. From the broad sweep of Whitesands Bay, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (incidentally celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2020) teeters along clifftops, scything its way through hedgerows stitched with thrift, campion, … Continue reading Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

Traeth Bach: the cut-off cove that eludes almost everyone

No one could term the beach destinations of Llangrannog, bustling one-time hangout of Dylan Thomas, and Penbryn, home to one of Wales’ best beach cafes, off-the-beaten-track. Both are pretty popular when the sun comes out. But there is a sandy bay in-between attracting about three visitors to every 300 Llangrannog and Penbryn pull in, and is so Pirates-of-the-Caribbean-picturesque it makes even its beautiful neighbours seem … Continue reading Traeth Bach: the cut-off cove that eludes almost everyone

Sweet temptation at The Plwmp Tart in Penbryn

Housed in a prettily converted stone cart house, the Plwmp Tart is everything a coastal cafe ought to be – and a lot more. The location is dreamy, for starters, with the cafe abutting sunlit beech woods that spill down to the bay of Penbryn. And organic and garden-grown ingredients go into light lunches and cakes – all made with a pinch of love. Why … Continue reading Sweet temptation at The Plwmp Tart in Penbryn

Between the sea and sky: Ynyslas Dunes

A vast, open expanse of sea and sky greeted us at the Ynyslas dunes. Rolling south of the Dyfi Estuary for as far as the eye can see, this dune dreamscape lifts gazes and spirits – particularly on a spring day, when a stiff breeze buffets the Irish Sea and clouds billow atmospherically in a sharp blue sky. Driving the Coastal Way, the 180-mile route … Continue reading Between the sea and sky: Ynyslas Dunes

A Ramble around Dinas Island

Walk length: 4.75km. Right from the off, Dinas Island dishes up surprises. Because of course, for one thing, it is not an island but a bulbous peninsula. For another, the access point from the A487 at Dinas Cross between Fishguard and Newport is unpromising: it scarcely suggests one of Pembrokeshire’s finest stretches of coast path could be so close. But weave down a couple of … Continue reading A Ramble around Dinas Island