Grub Kitchen, St Davids: where the grub is always good

If edible insects aren’t yet on your culinary radar, you are missing a trick – or so say the folk that run the Grub Kitchen in St Davids, Pembrokeshire. With a little input from his wife, Sarah Beynon, an academic entomologist, ecologist and farmer, award-winning chef Andy Holcroft has elevated edible insects to a whole new level in dishes that delight with unexpected flavours and … Continue reading Grub Kitchen, St Davids: where the grub is always good

Roch Castle Hotel: 21st-century flair in a 12th-century fortress

The surprise, with Roch Castle, is not that it exists. No retiring violet, it stands prominently out of the rolling patchwork of Southwest Pembrokeshire farmland whether you are approaching from the northeast (St Davids) or southwest (Haverfordwest). What is eye-opening is that an ancient, embattled stronghold like this could be so slick and contemporary within. And that you can stay there.  Why we love it… … Continue reading Roch Castle Hotel: 21st-century flair in a 12th-century fortress

Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

Look at Pembrokeshire’s coastline closely, the extreme-west coastline snagging in madly-gouged cliffs and cave-mouths and coves and rock stacks and smashed reefs and bewitching brokenness around St Davids, and a colour you would not expect distinguishes itself. Purple. And not from the heather, but from Pembrokeshire’s purple stone, most famously gracing St Davids Cathedral, which characterises both the craggy seaboard and lots of the regional … Continue reading Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

On a sunny day in St Davids, you might think it’s impossible to dodge the crowds. Yet the coastal honeypot is but a pebble-throw away from some deliciously secluded beaches: not least this sandy haven. From the broad sweep of Whitesands Bay, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (incidentally celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2020) teeters along clifftops, scything its way through hedgerows stitched with thrift, campion, … Continue reading Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

Pembrokeshire through an illustrator’s eyes: Jackie Morris puts us in the picture

Goldfinches in mid-flight, a proud oak bent in the breeze, the unfurling of a fern, an owl gliding on a moonlit night, the slippery grace of an otter under water – Jackie Morris’ illustrations are the ultimate journey into the natural world through the simple act of turning a page. The British artist and writer lives in a cottage in Pembrokeshire on Wales’ wild west … Continue reading Pembrokeshire through an illustrator’s eyes: Jackie Morris puts us in the picture

Meeting a modern-day pilgrim: insights from Iain Tweedale, pilgrimage guide

Pembrokeshire hiking holiday experts Journeying go a lot deeper than pretty day walks: a holiday with them is a spiritual journey retracing the footsteps of the early Celtic saints and the historic sites associated with them. We talk to trip leader Iain Tweedale on the current popularity of pilgrimage, St David, Pembrokeshire’s strange and special beauty and life on monastic Caldey Island. Journeying concentrates on … Continue reading Meeting a modern-day pilgrim: insights from Iain Tweedale, pilgrimage guide

Holier than thou: the Welsh, pilgrimage and why 2020 might be the time to make one to Wales

(6-minute read) In autumn 2019 the Welsh Government announced a new ‘Pilgrimage Trail’ linking 500 churches and chapels across the parts of Wales featuring on its cross-country touring route, the Wales Way. The project has yet to come into fruition but the fundamental elements of it, the holy buildings themselves, have been there for all to visit for one hundred years or more. One wonders … Continue reading Holier than thou: the Welsh, pilgrimage and why 2020 might be the time to make one to Wales

Slebech Park Estate: the ultimate Pembrokeshire escape

This fine romance of a Georgian manor is one of inland Pembrokeshire’s greatest escapes, with wide-open estuary views to lift spirits, woodland trails to get lost on, nouveau-chic rustic interiors and more than 1000 years of history hiding in its vast grounds. Why we love it… Watching the sun set across the silver-gold waters of the Cleddau River estuary at Slebech is a moment we … Continue reading Slebech Park Estate: the ultimate Pembrokeshire escape

Bedding down in a revamped shepherd’s hut in Solva

Undiscovered places quite often happen to be ensconced in thick woods. Plonk a thick wood next to a sublime and lonely stretch of Pembrokeshire coastline between the pretty fishing harbour of Solva and the historic city of St Davids and you have one seldom-seen but perfectly-placed location for this secluded converted shepherd’s hut known as Fairy Bridge. Why we love it… It was the first … Continue reading Bedding down in a revamped shepherd’s hut in Solva