The Sloop holiday cottage: in a coastal haven that once inspired Graham Sutherland’s canvas

Leading 20th-century artist Graham Sutherland loved Sandy Haven well, committing its coastscapes to canvas and finding painterly solace in its open expanse of sea and sky. Maybe it’s the way the dead-end lane unspools to the shore, or the ever-changing light and reflections of the estuary. Or perhaps it’s how the retreating tide reveals a generous expanse of sand and a crabbing bridge. But one … Continue reading The Sloop holiday cottage: in a coastal haven that once inspired Graham Sutherland’s canvas

Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven: a cove of majestic rock arches and a golden sandy strand for solitude seekers

If all place names were as wondrous as Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven, a dreamy double act of beaches just west of Tenby, we would all soon become cartophiles. We won’t deny it was in part the marvellous monikers that enticed us here when casting our eyes along this coastline for a sandy bay as beautiful as Tenby’s but bereft of Tenby’s rather considerable crowds. … Continue reading Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven: a cove of majestic rock arches and a golden sandy strand for solitude seekers

Grub Kitchen, St Davids: where the grub is always good

If edible insects aren’t yet on your culinary radar, you are missing a trick – or so say the folk that run the Grub Kitchen in St Davids, Pembrokeshire. With a little input from his wife, Sarah Beynon, an academic entomologist, ecologist and farmer, award-winning chef Andy Holcroft has elevated edible insects to a whole new level in dishes that delight with unexpected flavours and … Continue reading Grub Kitchen, St Davids: where the grub is always good

Roch Castle Hotel: 21st-century flair in a 12th-century fortress

The surprise, with Roch Castle, is not that it exists. No retiring violet, it stands prominently out of the rolling patchwork of Southwest Pembrokeshire farmland whether you are approaching from the northeast (St Davids) or southwest (Haverfordwest). What is eye-opening is that an ancient, embattled stronghold like this could be so slick and contemporary within. And that you can stay there.  Why we love it… … Continue reading Roch Castle Hotel: 21st-century flair in a 12th-century fortress

Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

Look at Pembrokeshire’s coastline closely, the extreme-west coastline snagging in madly-gouged cliffs and cave-mouths and coves and rock stacks and smashed reefs and bewitching brokenness around St Davids, and a colour you would not expect distinguishes itself. Purple. And not from the heather, but from Pembrokeshire’s purple stone, most famously gracing St Davids Cathedral, which characterises both the craggy seaboard and lots of the regional … Continue reading Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

MamGu, Solva – welshcakes with a ‘wow’

Even if you’ve only visited Wales on the odd occasion, you’re bound to have eaten a welshcake or three. Best served warm, these scone-like griddle cakes pop up on many a B&B tea tray or cafe menu. But we bet you’ve never tried welshcakes like those served at MamGu in the fishing village of Solva in Pembrokeshire. With their desire to be different and game-changing … Continue reading MamGu, Solva – welshcakes with a ‘wow’

Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

On a sunny day in St Davids, you might think it’s impossible to dodge the crowds. Yet the coastal honeypot is but a pebble-throw away from some deliciously secluded beaches: not least this sandy haven. From the broad sweep of Whitesands Bay, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (incidentally celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2020) teeters along clifftops, scything its way through hedgerows stitched with thrift, campion, … Continue reading Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

Pembrokeshire through an illustrator’s eyes: Jackie Morris puts us in the picture

Goldfinches in mid-flight, a proud oak bent in the breeze, the unfurling of a fern, an owl gliding on a moonlit night, the slippery grace of an otter under water – Jackie Morris’ illustrations are the ultimate journey into the natural world through the simple act of turning a page. The British artist and writer lives in a cottage in Pembrokeshire on Wales’ wild west … Continue reading Pembrokeshire through an illustrator’s eyes: Jackie Morris puts us in the picture

Café Môr’s Laverbread Brekky Roll

Jonathan Williams runs the fabulously quirky Café Môr, the world’s very first solar-powered, mobile-converted fishing boat and seaweed kitchen. Overlooking Freshwater West beach in Pembrokeshire, the food truck goes way beyond ordinary beach café grub, incorporating locally foraged ingredients in a menu that skips from this sensational (and sensationally easy to make) brekky roll with laverbread to Pembrokeshire lobster roll with Welsh seaweed butter.   Ingredients … Continue reading Café Môr’s Laverbread Brekky Roll

Meeting a modern-day pilgrim: insights from Iain Tweedale, pilgrimage guide

Pembrokeshire hiking holiday experts Journeying go a lot deeper than pretty day walks: a holiday with them is a spiritual journey retracing the footsteps of the early Celtic saints and the historic sites associated with them. We talk to trip leader Iain Tweedale on the current popularity of pilgrimage, St David, Pembrokeshire’s strange and special beauty and life on monastic Caldey Island. Journeying concentrates on … Continue reading Meeting a modern-day pilgrim: insights from Iain Tweedale, pilgrimage guide