The strange but stunning path to the last invasion of Britain: a circular hike from Fishguard

Distance: 10km (taking Pen Anglas headland loop 11km) Not many people tarry too long at ferry ports: they are all about getting to somewhere else, after all. But with Fishguard, for most just a harbour from which to high-tail it across to Ireland, those that dally will discover one of Southwest Wales’ prettiest settlements. It hugs the pronouncedly riven inlets of Northern Pembrokeshire with its … Continue reading The strange but stunning path to the last invasion of Britain: a circular hike from Fishguard

Carreg Coetan Arthur: Newport’s Neolithic surprise

It has happened to us on a few occasions in Pembrokeshire and never anywhere else ever. You are minding your own business, strolling through nondescript suburbia and wham, out of the bungalows and industrial estates materialises an archaeological site from several thousand years ago like a masterwork of Neolithic necromancy. You would be unlikely to chance upon the burial chamber of Carreg Coetan Arthur on … Continue reading Carreg Coetan Arthur: Newport’s Neolithic surprise

Penrhiw Hotel – escape to a chicly converted priory in St Davids

St Davids is busy as a beehive in summer, but you would never guess it when you give the crowds the slip and wind down the wooded country lane that leads to Whitesands Bay. Behind wrought-iron gates, tucked away from prying eyes and reclining peacefully in 12 acres of landscaped gardens and wildflower meadows, is Penrhiw Hotel, a sleekly converted Victorian priory where period charm … Continue reading Penrhiw Hotel – escape to a chicly converted priory in St Davids

The Sloop holiday cottage: in a coastal haven that once inspired Graham Sutherland’s canvas

Leading 20th-century artist Graham Sutherland loved Sandy Haven well, committing its coastscapes to canvas and finding painterly solace in its open expanse of sea and sky. Maybe it’s the way the dead-end lane unspools to the shore, or the ever-changing light and reflections of the estuary. Or perhaps it’s how the retreating tide reveals a generous expanse of sand and a crabbing bridge. But one … Continue reading The Sloop holiday cottage: in a coastal haven that once inspired Graham Sutherland’s canvas

Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven: a cove of majestic rock arches and a golden sandy strand for solitude seekers

If all place names were as wondrous as Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven, a dreamy double act of beaches just west of Tenby, we would all soon become cartophiles. We won’t deny it was in part the marvellous monikers that enticed us here when casting our eyes along this coastline for a sandy bay as beautiful as Tenby’s but bereft of Tenby’s rather considerable crowds. … Continue reading Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven: a cove of majestic rock arches and a golden sandy strand for solitude seekers

Grub Kitchen, St Davids: where the grub is always good

If edible insects aren’t yet on your culinary radar, you are missing a trick – or so say the folk that run the Grub Kitchen in St Davids, Pembrokeshire. With a little input from his wife, Sarah Beynon, an academic entomologist, ecologist and farmer, award-winning chef Andy Holcroft has elevated edible insects to a whole new level in dishes that delight with unexpected flavours and … Continue reading Grub Kitchen, St Davids: where the grub is always good

Roch Castle Hotel: 21st-century flair in a 12th-century fortress

The surprise, with Roch Castle, is not that it exists. No retiring violet, it stands prominently out of the rolling patchwork of Southwest Pembrokeshire farmland whether you are approaching from the northeast (St Davids) or southwest (Haverfordwest). What is eye-opening is that an ancient, embattled stronghold like this could be so slick and contemporary within. And that you can stay there.  Why we love it… … Continue reading Roch Castle Hotel: 21st-century flair in a 12th-century fortress

Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

Look at Pembrokeshire’s coastline closely, the extreme-west coastline snagging in madly-gouged cliffs and cave-mouths and coves and rock stacks and smashed reefs and bewitching brokenness around St Davids, and a colour you would not expect distinguishes itself. Purple. And not from the heather, but from Pembrokeshire’s purple stone, most famously gracing St Davids Cathedral, which characterises both the craggy seaboard and lots of the regional … Continue reading Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

MamGu, Solva – welshcakes with a ‘wow’

Even if you’ve only visited Wales on the odd occasion, you’re bound to have eaten a welshcake or three. Best served warm, these scone-like griddle cakes pop up on many a B&B tea tray or cafe menu. But we bet you’ve never tried welshcakes like those served at MamGu in the fishing village of Solva in Pembrokeshire. With their desire to be different and game-changing … Continue reading MamGu, Solva – welshcakes with a ‘wow’

Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

On a sunny day in St Davids, you might think it’s impossible to dodge the crowds. Yet the coastal honeypot is but a pebble-throw away from some deliciously secluded beaches: not least this sandy haven. From the broad sweep of Whitesands Bay, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (incidentally celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2020) teeters along clifftops, scything its way through hedgerows stitched with thrift, campion, … Continue reading Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids