Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven: a cove of majestic rock arches and a golden sandy strand for solitude seekers

If all place names were as wondrous as Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven, a dreamy double act of beaches just west of Tenby, we would all soon become cartophiles. We won’t deny it was in part the marvellous monikers that enticed us here when casting our eyes along this coastline for a sandy bay as beautiful as Tenby’s but bereft of Tenby’s rather considerable crowds. … Continue reading Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven: a cove of majestic rock arches and a golden sandy strand for solitude seekers

Roch Castle Hotel: 21st-century flair in a 12th-century fortress

The surprise, with Roch Castle, is not that it exists. No retiring violet, it stands prominently out of the rolling patchwork of Southwest Pembrokeshire farmland whether you are approaching from the northeast (St Davids) or southwest (Haverfordwest). What is eye-opening is that an ancient, embattled stronghold like this could be so slick and contemporary within. And that you can stay there.  Why we love it… … Continue reading Roch Castle Hotel: 21st-century flair in a 12th-century fortress

Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

Look at Pembrokeshire’s coastline closely, the extreme-west coastline snagging in madly-gouged cliffs and cave-mouths and coves and rock stacks and smashed reefs and bewitching brokenness around St Davids, and a colour you would not expect distinguishes itself. Purple. And not from the heather, but from Pembrokeshire’s purple stone, most famously gracing St Davids Cathedral, which characterises both the craggy seaboard and lots of the regional … Continue reading Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

Café Môr’s Laverbread Brekky Roll

Jonathan Williams runs the fabulously quirky Café Môr, the world’s very first solar-powered, mobile-converted fishing boat and seaweed kitchen. Overlooking Freshwater West beach in Pembrokeshire, the food truck goes way beyond ordinary beach café grub, incorporating locally foraged ingredients in a menu that skips from this sensational (and sensationally easy to make) brekky roll with laverbread to Pembrokeshire lobster roll with Welsh seaweed butter.   Ingredients … Continue reading Café Môr’s Laverbread Brekky Roll

Meeting a modern-day pilgrim: insights from Iain Tweedale, pilgrimage guide

Pembrokeshire hiking holiday experts Journeying go a lot deeper than pretty day walks: a holiday with them is a spiritual journey retracing the footsteps of the early Celtic saints and the historic sites associated with them. We talk to trip leader Iain Tweedale on the current popularity of pilgrimage, St David, Pembrokeshire’s strange and special beauty and life on monastic Caldey Island. Journeying concentrates on … Continue reading Meeting a modern-day pilgrim: insights from Iain Tweedale, pilgrimage guide

The quirks and caves of Druidston Haven

On the jagged expanse of seaboard south of Newgale, the narrow coast-hugging road threads through the ‘Havens’, four seaside settlements known for their tawny sandy coves and beaches backed by craggy cliffs and a stupendous array of coastal geology. Because of how the maze of little lanes around here spread-eagles out, Druidston Haven is the one of the four you would bypass completely unless you … Continue reading The quirks and caves of Druidston Haven

Holier than thou: the Welsh, pilgrimage and why 2020 might be the time to make one to Wales

(6-minute read) In autumn 2019 the Welsh Government announced a new ‘Pilgrimage Trail’ linking 500 churches and chapels across the parts of Wales featuring on its cross-country touring route, the Wales Way. The project has yet to come into fruition but the fundamental elements of it, the holy buildings themselves, have been there for all to visit for one hundred years or more. One wonders … Continue reading Holier than thou: the Welsh, pilgrimage and why 2020 might be the time to make one to Wales

A Ramble around Dinas Island

Walk length: 4.75km. Right from the off, Dinas Island dishes up surprises. Because of course, for one thing, it is not an island but a bulbous peninsula. For another, the access point from the A487 at Dinas Cross between Fishguard and Newport is unpromising: it scarcely suggests one of Pembrokeshire’s finest stretches of coast path could be so close. But weave down a couple of … Continue reading A Ramble around Dinas Island