The strange but stunning path to the last invasion of Britain: a circular hike from Fishguard

Distance: 10km (taking Pen Anglas headland loop 11km) Not many people tarry too long at ferry ports: they are all about getting to somewhere else, after all. But with Fishguard, for most just a harbour from which to high-tail it across to Ireland, those that dally will discover one of Southwest Wales’ prettiest settlements. It hugs the pronouncedly riven inlets of Northern Pembrokeshire with its … Continue reading The strange but stunning path to the last invasion of Britain: a circular hike from Fishguard

Foraging for food and thought with Wild About Pembrokeshire

The pandemic may have shrunk our lives over the past year, but it also opened our eyes to the natural world like never before. Tapping into our deepest primal instincts, foraging is about so much more than hunting for wild food. In many ways it is a moving meditation, a way of celebrating what each season brings and finding headspace in a constantly switched-on age.  … Continue reading Foraging for food and thought with Wild About Pembrokeshire

Carreg Coetan Arthur: Newport’s Neolithic surprise

It has happened to us on a few occasions in Pembrokeshire and never anywhere else ever. You are minding your own business, strolling through nondescript suburbia and wham, out of the bungalows and industrial estates materialises an archaeological site from several thousand years ago like a masterwork of Neolithic necromancy. You would be unlikely to chance upon the burial chamber of Carreg Coetan Arthur on … Continue reading Carreg Coetan Arthur: Newport’s Neolithic surprise

Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven: a cove of majestic rock arches and a golden sandy strand for solitude seekers

If all place names were as wondrous as Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven, a dreamy double act of beaches just west of Tenby, we would all soon become cartophiles. We won’t deny it was in part the marvellous monikers that enticed us here when casting our eyes along this coastline for a sandy bay as beautiful as Tenby’s but bereft of Tenby’s rather considerable crowds. … Continue reading Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven: a cove of majestic rock arches and a golden sandy strand for solitude seekers

Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

Look at Pembrokeshire’s coastline closely, the extreme-west coastline snagging in madly-gouged cliffs and cave-mouths and coves and rock stacks and smashed reefs and bewitching brokenness around St Davids, and a colour you would not expect distinguishes itself. Purple. And not from the heather, but from Pembrokeshire’s purple stone, most famously gracing St Davids Cathedral, which characterises both the craggy seaboard and lots of the regional … Continue reading Caer Bwdy Bay, source of Pembrokeshire’s striking purple stone

Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

On a sunny day in St Davids, you might think it’s impossible to dodge the crowds. Yet the coastal honeypot is but a pebble-throw away from some deliciously secluded beaches: not least this sandy haven. From the broad sweep of Whitesands Bay, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (incidentally celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2020) teeters along clifftops, scything its way through hedgerows stitched with thrift, campion, … Continue reading Porthmelgan: hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to a thrilling smugglers’ cove near St Davids

The quirks and caves of Druidston Haven

On the jagged expanse of seaboard south of Newgale, the narrow coast-hugging road threads through the ‘Havens’, four seaside settlements known for their tawny sandy coves and beaches backed by craggy cliffs and a stupendous array of coastal geology. Because of how the maze of little lanes around here spread-eagles out, Druidston Haven is the one of the four you would bypass completely unless you … Continue reading The quirks and caves of Druidston Haven

A Ramble around Dinas Island

Walk length: 4.75km. Right from the off, Dinas Island dishes up surprises. Because of course, for one thing, it is not an island but a bulbous peninsula. For another, the access point from the A487 at Dinas Cross between Fishguard and Newport is unpromising: it scarcely suggests one of Pembrokeshire’s finest stretches of coast path could be so close. But weave down a couple of … Continue reading A Ramble around Dinas Island