Valley views: Welsh Glamping adds a magical touch to the Mid Wales glamping scene

The dead-end track peters out in a long, lovely buttercup meadow flanked by patches of stream-latticed native woodland whilst the Cambrian Mountains press craggily behind: until recently, you would only get to gaze on such stunning snapshots from the esoteric Afon Gwesyn valley if you were one of the few in-the-know hikers on the route up to the gorge’s swimming holes and the undiscovered uplands … Continue reading Valley views: Welsh Glamping adds a magical touch to the Mid Wales glamping scene

The strange but stunning path to the last invasion of Britain: a circular hike from Fishguard

Distance: 10km (taking Pen Anglas headland loop 11km) Not many people tarry too long at ferry ports: they are all about getting to somewhere else, after all. But with Fishguard, for most just a harbour from which to high-tail it across to Ireland, those that dally will discover one of Southwest Wales’ prettiest settlements. It hugs the pronouncedly riven inlets of Northern Pembrokeshire with its … Continue reading The strange but stunning path to the last invasion of Britain: a circular hike from Fishguard

Where eagles dare: finding out about Wales’ latest wildlife reintroduction project with Eagle Reintroduction Wales’ manager Sophie-lee Williams

Wales boasts some spectacular nature but, for the last few hundred years at least, it has been of the tamer, gentler variety by world standards. This may be about to change as a project to reintroduce those kings of the skies – eagles – to the Welsh moorland, mountains and coasts, gains momentum. We swoop at the chance to catch up with the project manager … Continue reading Where eagles dare: finding out about Wales’ latest wildlife reintroduction project with Eagle Reintroduction Wales’ manager Sophie-lee Williams

Pork and butterbean cawl-ssoulet: a Welsh take on cassoulet from Wales’ first recipe subscription service, Swper.Box

Lockdown has yielded some wondrous culinary innovations, and this is never more apparent than with the emergence of Swper.Box, Wales’ first and only recipe subscription service. With the sound and scrumptious reasoning that if you cannot experience the finest Welsh cuisine eating out, you should at least bring the best of it into your kitchen, Swper.Box offer vibrant, easy-to-follow eight-step recipe cards allowing you to … Continue reading Pork and butterbean cawl-ssoulet: a Welsh take on cassoulet from Wales’ first recipe subscription service, Swper.Box

In-between lands: an ode to the Welsh moors

(7-minute read) ‘But how do you know?’ my hiking companion Chris, in normal life a calm rational fellow who runs marathons, screams at me in near hysteria and defeat, up to his knees in Mid-Welsh peatbog. Unwavering rain has been pile-driving down on us for two consecutive days, during which we have also been doing most of our walking off paths and across sopping moorland. … Continue reading In-between lands: an ode to the Welsh moors

The great Welsh chocolate-off: three of the nation’s loveliest chocolatiers go choc-to-choc in a taste-off, but which will set the bar the highest?

In the bleak midwinter, and especially in the run-up to Valentine’s Day, nothing beats a chocolate binge. But doing it classily will make you feel much better about indulging. Wales resembles a vast selection box when it comes to innovative chocolatiers: the sort of box where you keep discovering unexpected surprises. Besides being extremely scrumptious, the pick of these also showcase Wales’ impressive repertoire of … Continue reading The great Welsh chocolate-off: three of the nation’s loveliest chocolatiers go choc-to-choc in a taste-off, but which will set the bar the highest?

Carreg Coetan Arthur: Newport’s Neolithic surprise

It has happened to us on a few occasions in Pembrokeshire and never anywhere else ever. You are minding your own business, strolling through nondescript suburbia and wham, out of the bungalows and industrial estates materialises an archaeological site from several thousand years ago like a masterwork of Neolithic necromancy. You would be unlikely to chance upon the burial chamber of Carreg Coetan Arthur on … Continue reading Carreg Coetan Arthur: Newport’s Neolithic surprise

Reconnoitring Wales’ Celtic rainforest: a walk in the woods of Coed Felenrhyd and Coed Llennyrch

Distance: 4.25km (loop) or 7.25km (with 3km out-and-back extension). The road north from Dolgellau is among Snowdonia’s best: a surprisingly straight, wide A-road ushering traffic south to north across the National Park with little to see, ostensibly, but dense belts of forest until you hit the coast around Portmeirion. Which is perfect, because forests and lingering in ostensibly-little-to-see areas are what we are here to … Continue reading Reconnoitring Wales’ Celtic rainforest: a walk in the woods of Coed Felenrhyd and Coed Llennyrch

Llansteffan: the greatest hits in one striking coastal Carmarthenshire hike

Distance: 7.25km (loop) or 13km (with 5.75km out-and-back extension). Carmarthenshire, being next-door neighbours with beach-perfect Pembrokeshire, often gets its 70-odd miles of coastline unfairly overlooked. But the county is no seaside flop. The estuary-indented seaboard embraces Wales’ longest beach (eight-mile-long Pembrey Sands), the shores where numerous land speed records including Malcolm Campbell’s got set (Pendine Sands), the spot where Amelia Earhart touched down to become … Continue reading Llansteffan: the greatest hits in one striking coastal Carmarthenshire hike

Road Trip: Llandovery to Tregaron via Llyn Brianne

This rollercoaster single-track run begins in Llandovery, on the cusp between the Brecon Beacons and the Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales: a dinky, delightful market town seemingly designed for kickstarting road trips with its legendary bikers cafe. It whisks you through the verdant Upper Tywi Valley, via the winsome villages of Cilycwm and Rhandirmwym, up to the tentacular reservoir of Llyn Brianne, swooshing you through … Continue reading Road Trip: Llandovery to Tregaron via Llyn Brianne